Yak-lha, The Lost Culture of Shingkhar

In a folk tale heard in select regions of Bhutan, a story unfolds about a significant encounter between two masters: one from the Bon Tradition named Ode Gongjan and the other from Buddhism, Guru Rinpoche. Ode Gongjan, also known as a Bonpo, was a formidable master in the predominant Bon faith. However, with the arrival of Guru Rinpoche, a shift in supremacy seemed imminent. To establish dominance, a debate between the two masters ensued for days, weeks, and even months, yet no clear victor emerged from this prolonged contest.

In a bid to break the stalemate, the two masters agreed to engage in another set of contests, this time showcasing their supernatural powers. They decided on a competition to reach the summit of the famous mythical mountain, Gangkar Tse, by the time the first rays of the sun touched the peak the following day. With the contest scheduled for the next morning, both masters parted ways to prepare.

That night, while Guru Rinpoche remained in deep meditation, Ode Gongjan initiated his challenge. He rode on the sound of a drum, covering vast distances with each beat throughout the entire night. As dawn broke the next day, Guru Rinpoche rode on the rays of the sun, surpassing Ode Gongjan. Although Guru Rinpoche narrowly edged out Ode Gongjan, securing victory, the win was close. In a fit of rage and embarrassment, Ode Gongjan hurled the drum that had propelled him down the valley, causing half of the mountain to collapse. His uncontrollable fury and shame at the loss of the contest were palpable in that moment.

As the defeated party, Ode Gongjan was obligated to depart the area and relinquish his followers, who had previously revered and provided offerings to him. However, as Ode Gongjan prepared to leave, Guru Rinpoche consoled him and decreed that he could not only continue practicing his Bon faith, but would also be entitled to receive grand monthly offerings from various regions. This gesture by Guru Rinpoche demonstrated compassion and a desire to preserve the religious diversity of the region, even after his victory in the contest.

Guru Rinpoche decreed that Ode Gongjan, the defeated Bon master, would continue to be revered by the people of the valley, which corresponds to the present-day regions of Bumthang, Lhuntse, Mongar, and Zhemgang in Bhutan. Ode Gongjan was to be worshipped as a deity who protects livestock, and offerings would be made at places where livestock congregate. This arrangement allowed the Bon tradition to coexist alongside the growing influence of Buddhism in the region, demonstrating Guru Rinpoche's compassion and desire to preserve religious diversity.

The Yak-lha festival in Shingkhar is an annual offering made to honor Ode Gongjan, the defeated Bon master from the folk tale. The festival coincides with the 15th day of the 7th month in the Bhutanese calendar. It was once a popular celebration and gathering among the yak herding communities of Shingkhar. During the festival, Ode Gongjan is ushered to the altar in the evening, and texts praising him are recited throughout the night. The only musical instrument used is the drum. The following day, Ode Gongjan is bid farewell. Although the occasion brings festivity, the ceremony reflects the vanquished status of Ode Gongjan, as decreed by Guru Rinpoche in the folk tale.

The tradition of yak rearing in Shingkhar has significantly declined due to the changing lifestyle of the community, leading to a fading of the once vibrant cultural practices. Nowadays, only a few individuals partake in the occasion, and the tradition is rapidly fading into obscurity. Presently, the hills of Shingkhar are only graced by yaks that have been rescued from slaughterhouses, symbolizing a poignant shift in the cultural landscape of the region.