The Legend of Wang Sisi Chumo

Over the last many years, I must have traveled Thimphu-Paro highway over thousand times. On all the occasion I have seen the sight that has captivated me millions. Its the palace of Wang Sisi Chumo.

Today I wanted to write a brief account of the same. It is all based on the oral stories. Its totally non academic, and hence I could be wrong. Anthropologists and historians are thereby requested, not to take this as the historical account. 

Located somewhere between the Chuzom and Kharsadrupchu is the ancient house that is once believed to have housed the richest lady of the Wang valley. She was popularly known among the locals as Wang Sisi Chumo or the rich lady of the great Wang valley. Wang is the other name for present day Thimphu.

How Sisi Chumo became rich is for any one to guess. But here is one account. Legendry Sisi Chumo is believed to have a mysterious source from where she received wealth in all kinds, -starting from gains to salt and from cattle to cat. For the reasons known only for the Sisi Chumo, the transportation of wealth took place only in the cover of darkness. This meant she received her possessions only in the dark that too before the first crow of the rooster. 

Sadly, on one fateful morning, when the first cock crowed, the caravan carrying the wealth for Sisi Chimo is believed to have made only till the opposite hill side. The entire caravan froze over. Today the cliff opposite to the palace of Sisi Chumo is considered to be the remains of the very caravan through which Sisi Chumo received her bounty.

This is just one story. But  I am planning to collect many more stories in times to come. So keep visiting my blog.

Pleasant Friday Post

Today I received a book Called "Legends of LEPCHAS, Folk Tales From Sikkim" from a very unlikely  source.  Her Name is Lilly D. Gyatso She is the blood sister of Yehsey Doma, the great author herself. I think Lilly and I  first came across on Facebook. Later It was through my blog that we deepened our friendship. I can't believe that without even seeing  or meeting each other we have become a family friends already. She is now a good friend of my wife too. By the way Lilly is mother of one and currently she works and lives in Nepal withe her family. 

You see, I have already worked for seven years. But not being able to take my family for a vacation, ........not even to the Hanuman Mandhir in Jaigon, has been the most regrettable affair of my life. But now with Lilly and her family in Sikkim, I am foreseeing a vacation for my family in Sikkim (at least) in my near future.

I thank Lilly for sending me the book. She must have really spent a lot on courier services and I know how much insufficient my mere "thank you" are to thank her. I am really looking forward to reading all the stories in the book. Bhutan and Sikkim share an unrivaled commonness Historically, Culturally, Linguistically, Geographically and  in Religion.

Therefore, Through this book, I would like to correlate folk tales of Bhutan with that of Sikkim's. I have already heard a lot of stories about Lepchas and Doyas of Bhutan too. In some of the stories, I have even heard that so called the Doya tribes in the South-West of Bhutan were the first inhabitants of Bhutan! Through this book I would also like to see whether stories in the book could give some clue as to validate the Legends of Bhutanese Lepchas and their close cousins, Bhutanese Doyas.

Thank you Lilly once again for the wonderful book and convey my greetings to author. 

Freedom in Exile by H.H The Dalai Lama of Tibet

"Freedom in Exile" by His Holiness the Dalai Lama is by far the most touching autobiography ever written. The love and affection he have for his fellow beings are inspirational and are heart warming. Its a story written from the heart with full of emotion and feelings. Its a story of a compassionate Buddhist leader who was over powered by foreign aggression and then subsequently forced him into exile from his peaceful country, often referred to as Shambala (I know there aren't many people who haven't read this book)

One thing that makes this book truly beautiful is its spontaneity, humility and humor. Flipping through the pages, it made me laugh and smile. It made me think that H.H is as much amusing as he is holy and venerable. Flipping more pages, it made me even cry. It made my heart go out for all our Tibetan brothers and sisters who are living under the harshest possible condition in their own homeland. The kind of torture, bloodshed, execution, and imprisonments described in the book are nightmarish and are deeply disturbing. It also arouses a great sense of sympathy to those who are living as refugees around the world with constant pains and pangs of being separated from their loved ones and their beloved homeland. 

More then the story of a H.H, its also a story of how the rest of the world failed to protect innocent Tibet from the clutches of Communist's greed. Its a sad story of how Democracies around the world was silenced by the might of misinterpreted socialism in China under the dictatorship of chairman Mao. When Tibet saw no one with capacity and willingness to rescue its poor self, it was "power from the barrel of a gun" that did the rest in Tibet! The book also gives us an insight as to how Tibet has since then become a place of horror, cut off from the rest of the world and completely dark. 

The book gives us a brief historical account of how Tibet and China coexisted as a neighbor for eons. It also sheds light on those disappearing yet sacred tradition and culture of Tibet. The way H.H describes about the "magic and mystery" in Tibet is hilarious. The kind of patience H.H has shown towards reconciling with  China are true reflection of unmistakable Bodhisattva. 

The book also gives us an insight to the the most regrettable affair of the world. It elucidates about the greatest blunder of a greatest personality in the history. Its how Jawharlal Nehru, the then prime Minister of India, who underestimated the the kind of threat new China posed for recovering and already weakened India (under the British colonial rule) The idealist Nehru was rumored to have died heart broken, when he finally realized that China stabbed him from behind. It has a reference to 1962 war in which India suffered bitterly. "hindi-chini bhai bhai" from thence became Hindi-Chini Bye bye. Sino-India relations remained cold ever since, creating further distrust and instability in Asian region.

Besides those horrifying stories, H.H also narrates a story of his own family. Through his expression, we can clearly understand the amount of love, faith and trust he have towards his family members; -especially towards his  mother, brothers and sisters.The way he bullied his late brother Lobzang Samten is way too memorable and would bring both tears and mirth in any readers. 

Although H.H extended his sincere appreciation and gratitude towards every host country for treating all the Tibetan people with love and care, H.H have also put forth where some Tibetans have also gross injustice in some of the neighboring countries. Particularly in Nepal and in Bhutan. This has a reference to how Tibetan rebel forces were ambushed by Nepali forces in Musang and how some 21 Tibetans "were thrown into jails" of  Bhutan "without proper trials" due to some political problems. 

And the most important part of the book is H.H's five-point peace plan. The most important point in the plan is H.H's intention to transform Tibet into a Zone of Peace. This according to him is only possible if China demilitarized the entire Tibetan plateau. 

Finally H.H ends his story with following words:

"I would therefore like to conclude this book with a personal note of thanks to all friends of Tibet, The concern and support which you have expressed for the plight of the Tibetans has touched us all greatly and continues to give us courage to struggle for freedom and justice, not through the use of arms, but with the powerful weapon of truth and determination. I know that I speak on behalf of all of them when I thank you and ask you not to forget Tibet at this critical time of our country's history.

We, too, hope to contribute to the development of a more peaceful, more humane and more beautiful world. A future free Tibet will seek to help all those in need, to protect nature and to promote peace. I believe that our Tibetan ability to combine spiritual qualities with realistic and practical attitude will enable to make special contribution, in however modest a way. 

Finally I would like to share with my readers a short prayer which gives me great inspiration and determination:

For as long as space endures,
And for as long as living beings remain,
Until then may I, to bide
To dispel the misery of the world. "

It was little past midnight, when I finally finished reading the book. The sky outside was clear and air was much cooler. As I stood gazing at the moon and the stars thinking about the fellow Tibetans around the world, I saw a shooting star. A bright one that lasted the longest. It was then I made my wish. I wished for Free Tibet  and Long life for His Holiness the Dalai Lama. 

Yak-lha, The Lost Culture of Shingkhar

In a folk tale heard in select regions of Bhutan, a story unfolds about a significant encounter between two masters: one from the Bon Tradition named Ode Gongjan and the other from Buddhism, Guru Rinpoche. Ode Gongjan, also known as a Bonpo, was a formidable master in the predominant Bon faith. However, with the arrival of Guru Rinpoche, a shift in supremacy seemed imminent. To establish dominance, a debate between the two masters ensued for days, weeks, and even months, yet no clear victor emerged from this prolonged contest.

In a bid to break the stalemate, the two masters agreed to engage in another set of contests, this time showcasing their supernatural powers. They decided on a competition to reach the summit of the famous mythical mountain, Gangkar Tse, by the time the first rays of the sun touched the peak the following day. With the contest scheduled for the next morning, both masters parted ways to prepare.

That night, while Guru Rinpoche remained in deep meditation, Ode Gongjan initiated his challenge. He rode on the sound of a drum, covering vast distances with each beat throughout the entire night. As dawn broke the next day, Guru Rinpoche rode on the rays of the sun, surpassing Ode Gongjan. Although Guru Rinpoche narrowly edged out Ode Gongjan, securing victory, the win was close. In a fit of rage and embarrassment, Ode Gongjan hurled the drum that had propelled him down the valley, causing half of the mountain to collapse. His uncontrollable fury and shame at the loss of the contest were palpable in that moment.

As the defeated party, Ode Gongjan was obligated to depart the area and relinquish his followers, who had previously revered and provided offerings to him. However, as Ode Gongjan prepared to leave, Guru Rinpoche consoled him and decreed that he could not only continue practicing his Bon faith, but would also be entitled to receive grand monthly offerings from various regions. This gesture by Guru Rinpoche demonstrated compassion and a desire to preserve the religious diversity of the region, even after his victory in the contest.

Guru Rinpoche decreed that Ode Gongjan, the defeated Bon master, would continue to be revered by the people of the valley, which corresponds to the present-day regions of Bumthang, Lhuntse, Mongar, and Zhemgang in Bhutan. Ode Gongjan was to be worshipped as a deity who protects livestock, and offerings would be made at places where livestock congregate. This arrangement allowed the Bon tradition to coexist alongside the growing influence of Buddhism in the region, demonstrating Guru Rinpoche's compassion and desire to preserve religious diversity.

The Yak-lha festival in Shingkhar is an annual offering made to honor Ode Gongjan, the defeated Bon master from the folk tale. The festival coincides with the 15th day of the 7th month in the Bhutanese calendar. It was once a popular celebration and gathering among the yak herding communities of Shingkhar. During the festival, Ode Gongjan is ushered to the altar in the evening, and texts praising him are recited throughout the night. The only musical instrument used is the drum. The following day, Ode Gongjan is bid farewell. Although the occasion brings festivity, the ceremony reflects the vanquished status of Ode Gongjan, as decreed by Guru Rinpoche in the folk tale.

The tradition of yak rearing in Shingkhar has significantly declined due to the changing lifestyle of the community, leading to a fading of the once vibrant cultural practices. Nowadays, only a few individuals partake in the occasion, and the tradition is rapidly fading into obscurity. Presently, the hills of Shingkhar are only graced by yaks that have been rescued from slaughterhouses, symbolizing a poignant shift in the cultural landscape of the region.