Sanctity of Jarung Khashor

Below is the portion of article I wrote for Bhutan airline's in flight magazine 'Kuzuzangpola'

Baudhanath Stupa and I

We all know Katmandu is home for some the most ancient Buddhist monuments. Therefore as a Buddhist, there is something so fulfilling about being able to go to Katmandu. Some Buddhist structures there are listed as UNESCO heritage monuments. Back then, as a village lad, I grew up hearing stories about the magical Baudhanath stupa. They are long and each story often differ from one another. It seems there are Tibetan, Nepalese and Bhutanese mythologies each explaining the legend of the stupa. However there is portion in every story that is common and captivating: the wish fulfilling power of the stupa. Combining several stories together, I got the story as follows:

In Bhutan, the magnificent stupa is popularly known as Jarung-khashor. In course of our story, we will come to know why it was called so. For now, some sources suggest that the construction of a legendry stupa was initiated by an ordinary lady, called Jazima, the poultry woman. She bore four sons from four different husbands; horse trader, pig trader, dog trader and poultry trader.

Jazima, in her past life was a heavenly being. After suffering a downfall in her religious merit, she was reborn as an ordinary lady on earth. However she and her family maintained deeply religious attitude. She saved all her earnings from her hard work and when she knew she had saved enough, she approached the king and asked him for a piece of land. She told the king of her desire to construct a stupa on it.

Confused, dazed and after serious contemplation, the king granted her plea. But on one condition. Jazima could have the land; the size of which should be equivalent to a skin of a bull stretched on the ground. Crafty Jazima then sliced the skin of a bull to a size of a thread. She then extended the thread size string of bull hide on the ground to claim the land. Alarmed, many people complained to king about the size of land the king has granted to an ordinary lady. But king had no option other than to grant her plea. This is how stupa came to be known as Jarung-Khashor meaning ‘word of permission’ or ‘to be allowed’ or ‘given permission to do certain work’.

Few years on, after overcoming many major obstacles, the construction met a tragedy. Jazima died. But before her death, she told her four sons to complete the construction. She told her sons that completing it will not only fulfill her wishes and bring immense benefit to other sentient beings, but also fulfill their own. With this divine advice she died. Her death was marked with so many auspicious symbols. She regained her merit and attained buddhahood.

Her four sons kept their mother’s word and finally completed the construction. The relics of the Buddha of previous age were sealed in the stupa. When viewed from the sky, the shape of stupa is said to resemble Tibetan mandala. It is believed that the sanctification and empowerment ceremony of the stupa was attended by thousands of buddhas, deties and dakinis from the sky and of course by many mundanely people from. Therefore, today the stupa is viewed as great object of worship by devotees around the world.

The four sons of Jazima, then prayed. The son of Horseman wanted to become king and was reborn as King Trisong Dutsen of Tibet. The son of pig trader wanted to be reborn as compassionate Bhodisattva and was reborn as Zhiwa Tso. The son of dog trader wanted to be reborn as great master and was reborn as Guru Rimpoche. The son of poultry man wanted to be reborn as the religious Minister and was reborn as Songtsen Gompo. In brief, four brothers were reborn as the principle propagators of Buddhism. But they completely forgot to pray for the donkey that carried construction materials all through with four of them. So the donkey prayed for himself. He prayed devoutly to be reborn as the minister who could destroy the dharma so propagated by four brothers. But a crow on the tree top knew about the disparaging prayers of the donkey and so prayed to be reborn as preserver of the dharma from the destruction of the donkey’s incarnation. Accordingly, the donkey was reborn as demon Langdarma, who nearly wiped off Buddhism in the Himalayas. Later crow was reborn as Pelgi Dorji who then subdued Langdarma and subsequently revived Buddhism. Due to such legends, people today believe that pilgrimage to Baudhanath stupa of Katmandu, Samye Monastry of Tibet and Baudha stupa in Gaya have the power to even exempt a murderous sinner from miseries of samsara.

The legendry stupa has survived the onslaught of many turbulent times. But things seemed to have changed. Once pilgrimage and religious center has now become a commercial center. Globalization has not even spared religion. Sacred objects are produced in mass for sale. If not paid monks wouldn’t say prayers. Today, the monumental stupa is surrounded not by alters and temples but by shops and restaurants. Time has taken its due toll on the surroundings. Crowded, littered and dusty, the holy place is succumbing to the forces of modernization and over population. Everything appeared cramped. There were monkeys, lamp sellers and film makers. Nearby people were attending a funeral rite. Not far away wedding ceremony was in full swing.

My Trip to Katmandu, Nepal

out of hundred shots, I think I nearly got one right.

Few days ago, (on 7th June 2014) I had the privilege of boarding the Bhutan airline’s inaugural flight to Katmandu. There were over 70 people who were carefully selected and invited by the management of the airline. It included two Ministers, few senior bureaucrats, few media people and lot of travel agents. Although I was not in the list, I was able to squeeze-in in the company to grace the inaugural ceremony. Thanks to my Director for letting me take his seat. And more thanks to the airline management for accepting me in my boss’s place.

Katmandu, for many people is known for all the awful reasons. Ensuing political instability, the royal massacre in 1990s, the environmental squalor and cheap tourist are some of the topics that invariably get coined with it. In recent times it has even become known for the airport terminal that makes people sweat like pigs and the guards that seeks bribe at the entrance! But for a Buddhists people, especially the Tibetan Buddhists, despite all the predicaments, it is always a special place to be. As it is home for some of the most ancient Buddhist temples, it is one place that is most sought after by pilgrims. It is known fact that people from all direction flock there either to meditate on impermanence or to seek out religious solace or to look for for spiritual refuge.

In Katmandu Airport. 7/6/2014

Coincidentally, this June is by far the holiest month in Buddhist calendar. Therefore, my first ever trip (free trip) to the home of Baudhanath stupa and Swayambhunath sytupa couldn’t have come at a better timing than this. Our team landed in Katmandu airport to an overwhelming welcome ceremony by the Bhutan airlines office in Nepal. It was drizzling a bit but nevertheless it was a special feeling to be accorded a red carpet welcome. Amid all the sounds of trumpets and drums, we were showered with the rose petals. Little girls offered us orange scarfs. I though I was starting to look like lama! Then we were led into the terminal building. Once inside, immigration clearance took lion’s share of our time in Katmandu. With each passing minute, I felt the gradual impatience seep in me. But I was not alone. Nearby, I could easily over hear my other impatient friends grumbling. 

It was an overnight trip. So the keenness to have a quicker clearance for us, in our own sense looks justified. We all wanted to go out fast. After an hour of painful wait, we were all finally out. Several vans have come to pick us up. Seven of us took a van driven by a jolly man named Bassu. And to my amazement, there were quite a number of people who are actually making their first trip to Katmandu like me. As Mr. Bassu took us through the meandering roads of Katmandu city, many of my friends were quick in making comparison between our very own Thimphu and the city we have just entered. While most agreed on the similarities sighted, someone from the back said, even the banana in Thimphu looks similar to the one we were seeing. We all laughed. Few more turns, few more comparisons and few more laughing sessions, we soon reached our hotel. There was another round of khaddar session. It was white scarf that time. Orange and white khaddar already around our neck, three more khaddar, red, blue and green, and all us would have looked like a newly appointed Ministers of Bhutan! 

By then it was not the world class food in the Soaltee grand plaza that came to my mind. Neither were the five star hotel rooms that enamored me. But it was those ancient monumental stupas, the likes of Baudhanath stupa and Swayambhunath stupa that filled my heart. Those stupas have a history of their own. But for now let us leave it for another post. I was so eager to hear the murmuring Buddhists chants and smell the smoke of burning incense. More than anything else was my urge to see those wish fulfilling shrines in their original glory. 

After allocation of the hotel rooms, most of us were out again, swift and fast! Some went out for shopping while others slept in their rooms. But I chose to join the group that was out for pilgrimage to Swayambhunath stupa. Located on the hill top, the stupa has a classic aura  and awe of its own. But on the other hand, crowded, littered and dusty, the holy place apparently confirmed how it is actually succumbing to the forces of change, modernization and over population. There were monkeys and lamp sellers and film makers. Nearby people were attending a funeral rite and not so far away the wedding ceremony was in full swing. 

At around 7 pm, the delegations from both the countries were there to grace the inaugural session. Surprisingly, there were not many mingling taking place between the delegates. Keeping silent in one corner, I felt my throat choking. So I approached a senior Nepali official. I introduced myself to him. But before I could even complete, he said I look 200% Nepali. In return he introduced himself as the father of Mr. Ravi. So I presume Mr. Ravi to be an important person. I asked him about the pilgrim sites. But he had other things on his mind. He told me to put up questions, if any to Mr. Ravi. Seeing all the Bhutanese delegates in our national dress, he conveyed his appreciation to Bhutan for keeping our tradition and culture intact. “Nepal has no culture of our own”, he said. “Modernization and foreign influence are to be blamed” He lamented further. With this brief conversation, he disappeared into the crowd. 

Mr. Ravi’s father’s reluctance to communicate with me gave me an opportunity to observe the event in its entirety. Of all the people present, one person called Dasho Wangchuk, son of legendary Bhutanese business man caught my attention. He is the co-owner of Tashi group of companies, a millionare  and a leader of his own kind. The way he tended to the guests, big and small and the way he supervised his employees that night are simply exemplary. He exhibited that he is a leader who do not eat first. He showed how the giant or Monopoly slayers are made. Today Bhutan’s sleeping public corporations should be grateful for having a person like Dasho Wangchuk. In terms of waking up the slumbering public corporations, I think he is one person who knows to ring the alarm just and right. The night was wonderful except for the small stomach disorder I had to endure for the wrong combination of juice I took. (Do not drink apple, mango and orange juice together. It can really upset your tummy)

Pose worth million with a millionaire 

Next morning was a grad moment for me. I was due to join my group on pilgrimage to the penultimate pilgrimage site, the Baudhanath temple, which is known for its wish fulfilling power. So greedy enough, I made a mental calculation of my wishes on my way. And here are few of them:

1. Many many success to Tashi Air Pvt ltd
 for accommodating me and enabling me to wishes (as listed below)

2. Happiness and prosperity to my family

3. Not to fall ill 

4. To have no worries in life

5. To achieve all the targets that I set for my life

6. To see my three girls do well in life

7. And someday to become a father of a son as well

8. Happiness and prosperity to my mom and dad

9. Happiness and prosperity to my country

10. Long life to our king 

11. To retire as a happy civil servant

Finally we reached to the stupa site. Seeing the majestic stupa, I went wordless. Spellbound and nervous, I couldn’t take off my eyes off the Stupa. I forgot all the wishes I premeditated. It was like going blank for a while. However in more than two hours, I was able to spend the little amount of money I had on donations, incense, butter lamp and on colored prayer flags. By the time I finished writing the names of all my family members on the prayer flag, I lost my friends in the crowd. But to my pleasant surprise, two ladies from our group joined me. 

It was privilege for me to have come across a well known enterprising proprietor of Gangtey Palace resort, Mrs Choki and the chief editor cum designer of the Yeewong magazine and the Kuzuzangpo la magazine, Mrs Pema. Three of us talked extensively on varied topics. Two of them shopped and occasionally I joined them too. Later to my gladness, I discovered that Pema and I actually come from a same community. In course of our communication, I agreed to contribute a quarterly article for her magazine.

The Editor and Designer of
Kuzuzangpola Magazine and Yeewong Magazine
Mrs Pema Choden Tenzin

Finally, after sweating inside Katmandu terminal building for more than 2 hours, our group boarded the Bhutan airlines for our onward journey back to Paro. Fifty five minutes in the air and we were back to where we belong. I felt the trip was like a dream.