Nine Years In Paro Airport

I have completed my nine years in airport and soon I will be leaving for another place. After nine long years of attachment I feel like I am leaving my home. I met my wife in Paro, married her here and even raised my kids here. So Paro will always hold a special place in my heart. 

One year ago, I wanted to move out. That time it was purely in the interest of my career advancement. It was also in the interest of other friends who wanted to come here for the same. Somehow it never came through. This year I am really moving out and I am feeling lot more nostalgic. I am going to take loads of memories along. 

To begin with, I never thought I would someday work for Customs department. Had it not been for my wife, (who was then undergoing her teacher training in Paro College of Education) I would have landed elsewhere. So thanks to my wife, I chose to work in Paro and was able to officially join RRCO, Paro in January 2006. It was a humble beginning then. We rented an apartment below Rimpong Dzong. The apartment had a large living room, 2 bed room, 1 kitchen, 1 store and worst of all 1 toilet. With few personal effects, virtually the whole apartment was empty. But we had to accept it. My wife had lot to complain when I got home late because there were either many strangers peeping through our partially curtained windows. The most scarring part is that our apartment echoed like an empty cave. So we had a small altar set up on a table we picked from a construction site. That was basically to seek religious solace and apparently to draw off those peeping ghosts.

Now in nine years, things have changed. People say I have progressed a lot. I say yes, provided if the progress was to be measured in terms of having kids! In nine years, to the envy of some infertile people, I have become father of three beautiful daughters and a handsome son! That’s a biological progress! Some say so and I accept it with much joy. 

In nine years, I had the opportunity of working with many superiors and colleagues. Through each individual, I was able to draw special lessons. Working with late Regional Director, Dasho Zamtsho Tshering was scary but nevertheless been that much enriching. Director Choizang had his charisma as a boss. I thought he never liked me but in the end it was proven wrong. During my last personal audience with him, I have come to know about the sense of brotherhood he had towards me and in fact to all the staffs of DRC. I owe them million thanks. Dasho Yonten Namgyel is another guru whom I have a greatest regard. And I have my special regards and thanks go to my current boss, Mr. Bimal Kumar Pradhan. Working with him has been anything but like a running water. 

In nine years time, Paro airport has become lot busier. From a mere four flights a day; it has now increased to thirteen flights a day on an average. We have witnessed the entry of Bhutan airlines that nearly sent the veteran Drukair into an operational limbo. It’s all competition between the two airlines now. Whether air travel has become cheaper or not is another question. But as a Customs official, working in airport has become that much taxing. 

In nine years, many of the facilities in airport have undergone facelift. Airport has a longer runway, bigger hanger, better safety equipments and more qualified people working. In days to come, Paro airport will even have a separate terminal building for the arrival section with duty free shops that would issue electronic receipts! But here is one thing that has bothered my imagination for a good number of years. I am told that huge chunk of budget was allocated to Paro airport in preparation for the 16th SAARC summit, Centenary celebrations and the Royal Wedding. But inside terminal building there are little or no traces of that big money.

In nine years Customs office has managed to procure one x-ray machine. Four years into operation, it broke down completely despite intensive care and maintenance. Elsewhere, machines procured by BAFRA has also succumbed to the similar fate. I was mad with the kind of indifference shown by the supplier. Government doesn’t have a budget and they are reluctant to repair the machines. Distressing part of the affair is to see our performance get compromised on daily basis.

In nine years, I had good number of arguments with importers. The cause is very simple. I enforced laws for the safety of the nation and people simply found it too intrusive. I wanted to collect tax for a greater cause and they simply wanted to avoid or evade either through influence or manipulation. Today I stand amazed that there is a lesson to be learned even from those arguments. Paying is always painful irrespective of who you are. 

In nine years, I became over all in-charge of Customs for the record three times. I don’t know whether it was merited by my ability or by a vacuum created by someone’s departure. But in all the tenures, I think I gave my best. I am happy to be associated with all the shortcomings. But at the same time I am also proud to have led a team that was responsible for the seizure of gold, silver and currency worth millions of Nu. We were told about the rich reward recommended from the throne. We couldn’t be more proud than this. The royal appreciation was a reward rich enough for me and my team. With regard to the gold seizure, I never thought it would be that difficult for the court to convict a smuggler. While we remained silence, many people wanted the credit. Perhaps I could write pages after the high court passes the final judgment. 

In nine years, I had the opportunity of traveling to various countries. I met different people. I feel blessed to have met them all. Although many officials have the tendency of travelling only when the DSA accorded is more, I took the opportunity as and when given. Coming February I am again nominated to travel to New Delhi as a team leader. I am happy to know about the DSA of INR 850 per day. So far I have travelled to Japan, Korea, Malaysia and to India. Each travel has been an exciting and elevating. In near future I wish to travel once to China to see the Great Wall of China.

In nine years, I sat for few interviews. In one of the interview, I felt disheartened to know about the thing of preselected candidates. In another interview I did not even make through the first round. The last was when I attended for a GoI scholarship interview. I came out with flying colors! I topped the interview! I went to India and did Masters in Economics. I scored more than 82%. I came back to airport and forgot everything. Along with it I lost my 6 months seniority. However, I had equally memorable days. I was given a stipend of INR 7000 a month. With this I lived like a king in Gujarat. 

In nine years, I have become a blogger. Some people mistook me for an ardent social activist. I blogged about the controversial tobacco law and I got reprimanded. I came to realize that blogging can be an expensive passion to be pursued when it gets at political sentiments. 

In nine years, I have realized that working for Customs is being like a master tactician. Even if you are not you are forced to become one. In airport every day is a new day and new days brought in newer challenges. Newer challenges called for newer tactics. Despite having given the best in me I always felt that I was falling short somewhere. In discharge of my duty as Customs official; it was often my common senses that made the difference. Laws, rules and manuals I felt were there as a general framework. 

In nine years, I learnt that without so called “PR” (Personal Relation) you cannot get anything done. This is something unbecoming of Bhutan in the 21st century. Especially for a Customs official like me, maintaining “PR” meant attracting so many watchful eyes. I get the feeling that somehow people’s efficiency at this age is gauged through the “PR” yardstick. And in a place like airport “PR” is something you require in abundance. Otherwise you risk becoming low performer. 

In nine years, I was able to own one alto car. Believe it or not, as per ACC’s declarable asset definition that is the only qualified asset at my disposal. Our Government chose to name “bolero” as the “utility car” but to me and my family, our alto is our utility car. In nine years I could finally own an iphone. I still owe half the money though. 

I can go on and on. But to be brief, past nine years has been anything but a blessing.

Paro Tsongdue Lhakhang Now and Then

Paro Tsongdue Lhakhang Now
(2014)

Paro Tsongdue Lhakhang Then
(Around 1918 ?) 

Wonderlust Rates Paro Airport

Recently, one hour delay in flight gave me an opportunity to come across an angry foreigner. Like me, I thought he was angry with the kind of the tea, coffee and snacks that are available in restaurants and tea shops in airport. But I was wrong. He was furious firstly for not being able to fly on time. Secondly, he was more enraged with the way facilities are managed in the airport.

Paro Tsechu Post

I think for Parops, Paro Tsechu is a specialty of its own kind. Its arguably, the most cherished culture in Bhutan. For some, its plain beginning of spring season, a season of hope and anticipation.. But for locals, it marks the beginning of many things. I see blossomed peach trees and the lush willows, marking the beginning of bountiful year, Tshechu is no different. I think It heralds the beginning of all good things between earth and the sky for the people of Paro.

Time to Wear My Uniform

After two years, I am now preparing to wear my uniform, once again. This time I am going to wear the trousers and shirts sewed by experts in Ahmedabad. I hope I look like a law enforcer and not like a joker anymore. I also hope that my ranks on the shoulder do not create any confusion in the eyes of on lookers.

So in my preparation for the moment, I went to have a fitting hair cut. But to my amazement, entire Bondey town just had one barber. However after having waited for more than an hour, I was able to have my hair clipped in army style.

Farewell Paro Airport.

Paro International airport

Dear Friends,

It was on one cold January morning in 2006, that I first walked to my office; It was my maiden walk to my office; Regional Revenue and Customs Office, Paro. There were two of us, who in the words our ex-boss, 'came with our heads looking for ropes'. After a year long training in financial management, we joined the force of Customs in Paro International airport . 

Initially, with zero knowledge about the job, I honestly had lot of difficulties living up to the expectations of my superiors, clients and colleagues. There were times when my sincere service intentions were equated to  nothing but a harassment. But in five years time I feel I have  progressed a lot. The atmosphere in airport  have truly given me the the opportunity to not only  learn better about my job, but have also enabled me to  learn about other agencies that worked in the same place. These insights have truly made me more humble and  humane for which I wanted to convey my gratitude to all (my friends in airport)

Today, as I leave this place for a cause nobler to me, my family and my country, I would like to take a brief moment to thank all my dear friends with whom I had a very close association, both personally and officially. 

I thank my boss.  Sir Yonten Namgyel, Regional Director, RRCO, Paro for being source of inspiration. He has inspired me to become a humble person in serving our country. Not only that, he was also a motivating factor who inspired me from behind to pursue my writing habits. In him, I saw the traits of not only a leader, but an attributes of a sublime human being.  With this, I would also like to thank my colleagues of RRCO. Paro for being very affectionate and friendly all through my days in Paro.

I thank my supervisor Mrs Yeshey Seldon, for all her feminine wisdoms and intellects. I also thank her for accepting me in my own wholesomeness (blunt and rough). I think she is one person who understands me in and out.

I thank my dear friend Tashi Namgay for standing tall and firm beside me in discharge of our duty as Customs officers. His sense of unity, trust and friendship has always inspired me to work more diligently. I also thank him for being very amusing with his witty jokes.

I thank all my colleagues in airport for being such a wonderful people. They are indeed the reasons of my success. I thank each and every individual for being very open and obedient. Some of them are my very teacher who educated me in my job. Besides, I also thank our office drivers, Aue Dawa and Phuntsho for bearing with me and my way of assigning un planned works for you. You are all commendable comrades.

 I thank Sir Karma Wangchuk, The Joint Director, Civil Aviation  for his dynamic leadership in the airport. He has always been a man who accommodated my suggestions and  pleas. Till date, I may have made over thousands suggestions and recommendations, (both officially and personally) but amazingly he never said no to me on any occasions. 

 I thank Dasho Tshering Penjor, The Chief Security Officer and his team for rendering all the necessary co-operations to my office. I thank all the security officials for being pro customs in the field of enforcement and hope the good relationship will continue to grow and deepen.

I thank the Lieut. Dradul, Officer In-charge of airport Police and Captain Thuji, the former OC, for all the good and friendly relation we had. It was through them, the relationship between Customs and Police actually grew. I hope this relation will further mature and yield a positive result in enforcement field. 

 I thank Mrs. Tshering Doma, Immigration Officer, for being a very good friend all along. I thank her for being very candid and open with me. Personally, I thank her for accommodating with all my nonsense chit chats during our leisure hours too.

I thank the BAFRA team of airport for always being with Customs. We have always shared a common interest and common work place (near same x-ray machine). This apparently said that Customs and BAFRA are inseparable in the field of enforcement. I hope this will remain forever. On the lighter note, I would also like to extend my heartfelt appreciation to BAFRA team for sticking with customs team in the football ground too. We may not have won a single trophy in history, but it was our unity that counted. So do not loose hope. Keep playing.

I thank Mr. Ugyen Namgyel, Catering supervisor and his catering team for all the regard and respect you all had towards me. I thank Mr. Thinley Dorji (captain) for his daily news papers and occasional coffee and snacks. Even though I wasn’t entitled for those facilities, it was all his good heart that counted. So thank you Aue Captain.  On a personal note, I would also like to thank Mr. Ugyen Namgyel for all his support and care during my sickness in 2006. I immensely thank his wife (my distant cousin) and family for accommodating me in their house during my crucial and lonely days.

I thank all the station managers, (Paro station), Drukair, Past and Present for all the good times and co-operation we had together. I thank Mr. Nidup and Mr. Damcho for educating me on the aspects of drukair operation. This knowledge has greatly enabled me to discharge my duty in a more professional manner. I also thank Mr. Ugyen Tashi, the Current station Manager and all his dynamic team of staff for all their co-operation.

I thank Aum Karma Choden, Bank of Bhutan, for all her humanely advices and concerns she had towards me. She was one person who wholeheartedly talked to me about my weakness and flaws. I took her words just like I take my mother’s words. Her words honestly had positive impact in my life I thank her with all my heart. I also thank her for treating me with coffee all the time with imported milk powder.

I thank senior officers like Mr. Tashi Dukpa and Mr.Tashi Penjor of Civil Aviation, for leading us in sports activities in airport. Even though there were some fellas who fancied fighting than footballing, the fact remains as the fact. Every individual enjoyed the game (including me)

I would also like to Thank my friend Mr. Surinder Singh and Mr. Ranga of Indian Air Force Elements (AFE) located in Paro International airport.  These 2 gentlemen have been like a bridge between my office and our Indian counterparts both within  and incoming. I thank the AFE for showering with many gifts on their national important days. It was not only gifting but was also equally educating abut their culture and customs. Thank  you all for your help. I also thank them for providing me a Ray ban sun glass ( which I unfortunately lost to a mechanic who stole away from my car) 

Thank you all for being such a wonderful people to work with. My six years in airport has been anything but truly the most enriching and rewarding era of my life. It is here, I became not only responsible family man, but a responsible citizen of our beautiful country too. With divine experience I gained on daily basis, I have always tried to live up to the expectations of not only my superiors, but have equally strived to also live up to the expectations of you; my dear friends too.

As a Buddhist and more as someone who practices it on daily basis, even in discharge of my duty to Tsa-wa-sum, I have always chosen to follow middle path. As I contemplate in retrospect, it brings to me, a deep sense of delight, knowing that it befitted not only me but to all whom I had an acquaintance, both officially and personally.

 But, a popular adage has it; ‘with good times comes bad times’, obviously there were some bad times in between as well.  As much as I take the pride in acknowledging my good times, I would also like to take this time to acknowledge my bad times without any hesitation too.

As human and more in the vein of unenlightened being, there must have been times where I have acted pernicious. There must have also been times, where I have spoken like serpent. As a young and juvenile officer, I must have also acted unruly, irritating and gossipy. Allow me to take them back. Because I know every human being (including the Lamas) err. Least, I am no exception to this universal law. I know I err and err more to be fittingly called and ‘kachara’ (problematic), ‘za ma tup’ (uneatable) and aggressive ‘zan dre’ (begger who has devils face).

As a man who works for Customs, (In-charge) I couldn’t have asked for a better term. At times, those labels brought me immense satisfaction too. It reminded me of my sincere service to my Country, my King and to my fellow Bhutanese people.

But on the other hand, it saddened me as well. As an enforcement officer, only discretion I had was  my obligation to Government; -to enforce law. With this, I often found myself caught up in the thought of those things that are ethically right, but morally wrong?  I have often spent sleepless nights trying to balance morality and ethicality of law enforcement. Isn’t this a strange thing that I only to arrive at a self consolatory line which says ‘Law enforcement is right on both the counts’?

So,In the light of aforementioned line, I would like to reiterate, that all I did was more  in the interest our law; -to do something right in general- and not to harass or hinder anyone in the process. Even though it’s neither great nor rare, I bear all the responsibility for my deeds. Please forgive me, for forgiveness is to divine. 

Wishing you all a success and Happiness in life. 

With warm regards and respect.

Kuenzang Thinley

Masters in Economics,

Gujrat University,

Ahmedabad, India

My understanding about the International Health Regulation.

17^th March 2011

Sub: Meeting with the International health regulatory experts

The International Health Regulation (IHR) experts from World Health Organization (WHO) along with the senior program officer, Mr. Tshering Dendup, Ministry of Health, Bhutan were here in Paro airport to sensitize; the representatives of the different agencies, on the importance of public health services at the point of entry. The team said, that they were on an “assessment Mission” on Public health facilities in Paro airport.

With only handful of  participants from airport, our meeting rather started on a very casual and informal note. The program officer, asked the participants about some of the threats that our Country is facing today. There were three of us who responded immediately. I responded by saying ‘Tobacco’ while two other responded by saying ‘terrorist’ and ‘pandemic’ respectively.

As the meeting proceeded further, the experts educated us on many aspects of public health, history of IHR regulation and International conventions related to WHO. Bhutan is signatory to the convention called International Health Regulatory Authority and hence we have obligations to be fulfilled (in near future). This will enable our system to comply with international regulations in times to come.

In my understanding, our country can comply with the IHR as follows:

1.       Educate all the service providers about the international conventions like WHO constitution, International Health regulation and Universal aviation/land crossing  safety etc 

2.       Designate competent National Focal point that will communicate about the potential health threat in their jurisdiction to a competent authority. 

3.       Designate point of Entry, with all the core capacities (both for all times and times of emergency) both for air and land.

4.       We can rethink of integrating this health regulation to the airport emergency plan

Over 4 million passengers flying 24 hours a day around the world, the potential of spreading a communicable disease (overnight) is a  foreseeable thing.  This has in turn called for Universal Aviation Safety Audit, which consist of concepts like Aerodrome safety, facilitation and Co-operative Arrangement for the Prevention of Spread of Communicable diseases through Air travel (CAPSCA)

The team also enlightened me and my friends on the need of integrating WHO and ICAO. Air traffic management under the regulation of ICAO can act as a crucial information provider  to the flight Captain/pilot about the passenger who boards the plane with the potential health risk. In this way the the potential high risk passenger can be identified and located way before the flight actually lands at the designated point of entry.

Universal  Aviation Safety Audit, will conduct aviation safety audit and publishes its findings to the public. The public will be informed about those point of entry, that have low safety compliance record and hence not worthwhile for the travel and vice-versa.

The main aim of IHR is to contain the risk at the origin through public health services and public health surveillance. Therefore health is the security is everyone. Without a secure health system, we are as strong as a weak link in the chain of security system.


Note: I am afraid, that this article is rather haphazardly written. The points are not in sequential order and I would like to remind all my readers that this is what I have learned in just 1 hour about the IHR from the experts.