For Now, Good Bye to Seoul

After a meaningful 2 weeks in Seoul, Korea, I am finally going back. My training has been a  great achievement. I had the opportunity of being trained by some of the best analysts in the world. At the end of our training, fours of us, -me and my friends from Bangladesh, Philippines and Sri Lanka, we all learned that report writing is fun but at the same time can be sensitive too. In my opinion, I think it takes a lot of experience.

Although, we thought that DSA of $30 was a lot of money in the beginning, somewhere in the middle we came to realize that it was little less. I had to skip some meals to adjust my budget. But however in the end, with the supreme hospitality of our hosts, Korean Customs and other RILO AP officials, we actually thrived on that $30. All of us had lot to shop in the Meongdong market, all of us bought a lot of beautiful Korean souvenirs. I remain ever grateful to all the RILO AP officials for being so so generous with us. Even in our drunkard state, we all agreed that we are humans beings first and we feel for each other, irrespective of our diverse nationality.

With Deputy Head of RILO AP (tallest in the group) 

I will remember those dinners, both private and official. Our drinking sessions with lot of sensual communications had been a truly a memorable one. I will remember Mr. Nasier of Bangladesh singing "Ari-ari rang- suri-suri-rang" and touching the hearts of our Korean friends. I will also remember the lively atmosphere our RILO AP Head and Deputy head  had created during our official dinners and luncheons. They are truly intelligent and witty people. Probably that explains why Korean Customs administration is one of the best in the world. 

Our cultural excursion was even memorable. I had the good opportunity of visiting some of the UNESCO heritage sites in Seoul. By the way, South Korea have 10 cultural sites and 1 Natural site listed as UNESCO heritage site. The geomancy of Korean architecture is truly spellbinding.  Starting from the roof top to window panes, each part have a holy and auspicious significance of  their own. For example, during the last King of Joseon dynasty, the palace for the Price was built in the east, because Korean people believed that Price is like a rising Sun.

With female Culture Guide

Tour guides in their traditional Chima (for ladies) and Majoga (for men) dress at the sites are even more enthralling. They display a lot of pride and happiness in their cultural heritage. Although its a second language for them, they speak flawless English. They do no fumble like some of our guides in Bhutan. To, me they are a living history book. they are the stars of Korean culture. 

Female Culture Guide

I was told that most of the cultural sites were once destroyed by the invading forces of Japan. However they were rebuilt to their original glory. Unlike in many other countries, they were not left to ruin. One of the guides told the Japanese people in our group to take it as History. She said, otherwise the Koreans love Japanese. You see, they are even diplomatic!  

with a male  Korean Culture Guide

With these beautiful moments, I would like to bid good bye to this beautiful country. But someday, I would love to come back again. Anneongi-gaseyo

Living in Gangnam City

Without much hitch, I have completed my first week here in Korea. Each day has been an exciting one. I am privileged to have the company of my three trainee friends from Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Philippines. While the Lankan girl and Philipino guy are friendly, its the humor of our Bangladeshi friend that keeps us all going. 

According to Mr. Naser, the Asst. Director of Bangladeshi Customs, He feels that laughter is something which a metro city like Seoul is seriously lacking. He feels that without laughter, attending a training on access and excel wouldn't be an easy thing. Perhaps, he is now getting the exchange rate of Korean won to the USD right, because he doesn't talk much about travels and gifts any more! His disgust for Korean food, seems have reached to the highest limit. Kimchi, he said is a miserable food. True to his words, in one of the recent Korean science journal, it rightly said that the amount of salt being used in Korean food is of a big concern for the Koreans themselves. He calls afternoon nap as "marathon sleep".

Well, let me not gossip more about my friend. Rather I would like to take this post to share my own Korean experience. To begin with, Korea is one country that I know, rose from the cruelty of colonial oppression and brutal shocks of the wars. Spurred by the greed of super powers, the cold war effect in peninsula finally ended with the division of the motherland into South and North. While, North (so called the fatherland by its founder Kim Il-Sung) chose to remain secluded and cut off from the world, South has progressed to this level. Few of them tell me that love for the motherland and hard work are the key component that brought them thus far.   

Korea, not doubt is a trendy place now. Especially in Seoul city, fashion, I think is the life blood, that is keeping the city alive. I am guessing, whether this fashionestia is responsible for making the Gangnam area more expensive then the rest. So here are few observations I made in Gangnam city.

People: Outwardly, many Bhutanese people have the notion that Koreans are among the most good looking people in Asia. I think we are right. Both male and female, they are known for their sharp features, fair skin and unique hair dress ups.They are actually phone-liking people.

Many Bhutanese youth, who are oblivious about the recent proliferation of so many plastic surgeries actually wanted to look like Koreans, sing like Koreans, dace like Koreans, eat like Koreans and live like Koreans. Apart from the external looks, Koreans, I think are steadfast people. They are people who mind their own business. Free in their own world, other matters seem to bother them least. To understand Korean, one simply need to open up the conversation. Its the gate way to their beautiful heart.

Food: Kimchi is the first thing that come to my mind. However, there are thousand other Korean dishes that are still prevalent. Although there has been an unprecedented invasion of KFC and MacDonald and other foreign (fast) foods, indigenous Korean foods, it seems have withstood the foray. Almost all kinds of foods are served hot and spicy, but at a equally hot and spicy price tag too. Some served in stone pots and some in bamboo canes.

Unlike the Japanese (who uses bamboo chopsticks) and Chinese (who uses wooden chopsticks), Koreans use Chopsticks made of steel. This according to one Korean official is to poke their enemies.. ha ha. He was kidding. And here is one thing that might prove useful for foreigners traveling to Korea. Koreans' one serving can satisfy 2-3 average hungry person. Besides main dish, rice and kimchi being the popular side dish wre served with numerous other dishes. Even the soup will have a side dish of rice. Now Bhutanese people, how do you like it? Therefore, to minimize cost and reduce wastage, avoid ordering every individual a different meal.

Shopping: Seoul is an international shopping hub. Any doubt about that? However for an average shopper, Gangnam is one area I would not recommend. In fact I would not recommend any of my Bhutanese friends to shop here. They have all the killer price tags. That is why our Bangladeshi friend have humorously chosen a name for Seoul; The "dead city".

I am told that Gangnam area is a shopping place for trendy people, like pop stars, film actors and for politicians. But for an average Bhutanese civil servant like me, I find every place in Seoul, so so dear. And the saddest fact is that, to our own misfortune, our training is being conducted in the heart of these chic city. Everyday, we are paying twice as much for food, water and for beer and soju. With each passing day, our wallets are becoming thinner and thinner.

Cars: One thing that is all glittering about this city is the variety of cars they have. Starting from their home made KIA and Hyundai they have all the cars between the sky and the earth. BMW, Mercedes, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Audi, Ford and volvo are few I can name. But surprisingly, in my one week, I just saw one Toyota car. This to me, shows the intensity of rivalry between the car makers of Korea and Japan has reached.
 

Girls:  Without writing a line on Korean girls, my Korean experience wouldn't be complete. Yes, they look exotic, sexy, slender and cute. They are girls in the world, who defined the real meaning of "shorts" and style. Shorts at the moment seem to be the most popular outfit among the Korean young girls. Or is it because its summer now? Our Bangladeshi friend call them the "Long legs".

But there is one dark side to this beauty aspect;  -the plastic surgery. I don't know how many people view it. For me, I am just wondering why, especially the beautiful girls require modification when they are richly blessed by mother nature. I feel its just a plain greed to simply look artificially beautiful. (for few years?) it is an act of defying and deceiving nature. If Joan Keats were alive, he would have died murmuring "beauty is impermanence"

By the way, there are some ugly girls here too. I don't know from where they have come. They are huge like elephants! Some have arms bigger than my Thais.  They look like man! I think they could  have easily qualified for a place in WWE!

Language: Not many people speak English here. But when they do, they are far better than us. Otherwise most people talk to foreigners in their own Koreanized English.

Suiting and Booting Abroad; My Way

With this trip abroad, much to the envy of my friends, I have been to several countries already. Each travel has been an exciting enterprise. There are some enriching experience which I cannot put in words. They can be only felt. Although I have never benefited monetarily from the travels, there are few intrinsic things which even million dollar wouldn't buy. The bond of friendship I tie with friends abroad and the wisdom and acumen I achieve through these travels are few things that make me feel way richer.

During those travels, I have had the opportunity of representing my country. I feel blessed. Getting trained by resourceful people around the world and  living and dining in some of the finest hotels on the earth are what I call blessings. So each time I travel abroad, the first thing I do is portray myself as Bhutanese to the best, both inwardly and outwardly.  Therefore suiting and booting are not in my dressing agenda. I just go with my olf ghos.  I call it as my way of booting and suiting abroad. 

By the way this time we are four participants. Just four! One person each from Bhutan, Bangladesh, Philippines and Sri Lanka. Four of us are here to learn the techniques and methods of analyzing information into reliable intelligence. You see. I am soon going to become an analyst. We are generously paid a DSA of USD 30 per day. Its a lot of money!

Our Bangladeshi friend, who is on his maiden ex-country training, at first had difficulty breathing when we were handed over Korean won worth 420,000 each. Till yesterday evening, he was under culture shock. Just like I struggled with the light switch in Japan(on my first trip), during our welcome dinner, he struggled with his chopsticks. Today he is down with flu. He still speaks Bangali to me and our Sri Lankan friend thinks I am good at it.

My Second Trip to South Korea

Thanks to my department and RILO AP office, I am here in South Korea for the second time. Its always a pleasure and happiness travelling to such a beautiful country. I flew in Drukair till Bangkok on 28th June 2014. His Excellency the Prime Minister of Bhutan was also on the same flight. While the plane stopped in Bhagdora, I had the opportunity of being asked by the PM about my travel. I told him that I am travelling to South Korea for a training and he said I, myself look like a Korean man. (or did I hear him wrong) From Bangkok I had to catch Korean air at 10 PM. It was a long wait. But I had a company of three Bhutanese, who made that long-wait bearable.

There was one lama and one monk who were travelling to Hong Kong and a young girl who wason her way to Australia for her studies. Four of us stayed together till the time I had to part to catch my flight. While many passengers feasted in Macdonald and KFC, four of us dined Bhutanese paa-rice (which lama and monk brought from Bhutan)

And few moments before, the security guards in the gate detected a bottle of apple juice in lama's bag and actually wanted to dispose it off. I intervened and told the guards that we are going to drink it right before him.  We did. Amazingly we took only few minutes to gulp one liter apple juice. Not knowing that he was out smarted, the guard shook his head in disbelief. He giggled at us. Another bottle of juice in lam's bag passed the check undetected. I think I drank most. Shortly I had this sensation of bulging tummy. Probably I ate  more paa-rice too.  In the loo while peeing, my fart just made the sound of a Thai announcer.

Five hour midnight flight was a long long journey. I felt so so sleepy. Here is the lesson I learnt. Taking transit flight is a torturous affair. If you are civil servant you are not even entitled to USD130 enforced halt (if the wait is less then 8 hours) This is bit ridiculous, because 6 hours wait is going to make you as hungry and as tired as 8 hours. Finally in the early morning hours of 29th June, I landed in Inchon International airport. I came across three gentleman from South Sudan. While waiting for immigration clearance, I talked to them about my first trip and they talked to me about the ongoing trouble in Sudan. But after clearance, we parted like pie and the Tiger. -We couldn't say good bye to each other.

Someone called Mr. Steven, a chubby looking Korean driver has come to pick me and the official from Bangladesh. I am surprised to know that Mr. Nasier of Bangladesh is the Asst. Director of Customs and it just took him three years to get the title. And its even more interesting because Mr. Nasier speaks to me in Bangali which I do not understand much.

Even without lunch and dinner, my second trip to South Korea so far has been anything but a fairy tale.  

Training Experience I Shared during the Closing Ceremony

Honorable Director, respected expert mission from RILO AP, respected commissioners, seniors and my dear colleagues. Today I, on behalf of my trainee friends and on my own behalf, stand here to briefly share our experiences about capacity building program mentioned under.

Office of the RILO AP and DRC has initiated a capacity building program for Bhutanese Customs Officials. Three day workshop on “Intelligence Analysis & Risk Management using the CEN Database” was conducted by Dr. Gryphon Sou, Mr. Wang Liang and Ms. Sung Im Lee from RILO AP. 

My trip to Sector 29, Faridabad, India

 

Last November, I was nominated to undergo drug law enforcement training in Delhi. It was computer based training. The duration of the training was four days and we were four from Bhutan.

 To me, India is a place where ranks mattered everything. I have even heard stories of official differentiation based in ranks and positions. To this end, I was repeatedly advised by my colleague to inflate my rank (Asst. Customs Officer) when I go there. Even though my promotion date was still more than a month away, I took his words and got my business card printed with my next higher rank (Asst. Collector of Customs)

As a normal human being and more so as a Bhutanese official, I had a very high expectation form my overseas training. Eighty percent deduction of DSA was certainly such a sad and bad news because higher DSA, cozy free rooms, comfortable economy class travel and good foods to eat were some of the things that every officials immediately start to fantasize.

We were also initially issued our travel itinerary to Delhi via Katmandu.

At home, I was busy packing my bag when my tiny purple nokia phone rang. It was from my supposedly team leader. He sounded so uncomfortable. But he had a clear message -the initial itinerary has been cancelled and that the organizers are looking for other options. He again rang me up hours later and said that I have to take a Taxi from Paro till Bhagdora. He was to me, a father of bad news. Overseas travel in Taxi was the last thing I had envisaged.  The fear of catching cough and cold from the bumpy, dusty and perilous high way was a very much foreseeable state of affairs. Being severe sinusitis patient, the fear of having to suffer a severe nasal congestion was even worse and terrifying than the word fear itself. With multitude of thoughts gushing my psyche, I finished packing my small bag.

In the evening, I went to alter alone and lit up a butter lamp; I made a sincere and ardent prayer to the almighty god. My prayers were honest and direct. I am in no mood to take a bumpy ride in a stinking taxi at an exorbitant fare and I am not willing to empty my savings account for the trip apparently sponsored by international organization. –United Nation’s Office for Drugs and Crime.

The next day, I reached Phuntsholing, the commercial hub of Bhutan. My homely colleague there welcomed me with a grand dinner.  Weakened by the bumpy ride in the back seat of the scorpion car, I fell fast asleep in a cozy bed near his newly procured alter. I slept so well that even the fierce lone female mosquito’s attack did too little to disturb my sleep.

If my previous day’s journey had weakened me, my journey next day crippled me. The food became tasteless and my nose became use less. The difficulty of having to breathe meant that I had to use lot of nasal drops which had an adverse affect on my health.

By mid day we were in Bhagdora, eager and ready to begin our travel portion by air. We all looked very pale and exhausted. The trip reminded me of the poem by Nissim Ezekiel ‘The Enterprise’ where he says “trip had darkened every face”. Surely the long distance travel has taken its toll on all of us.

We had our lunch with half cooked chicken curry in a small crowded restaurant.  We were served with water directly fetched from the tap by an under aged waiter.

Lunch served! It was time for us to head to airport to catch our flight.  In the gate, our air tickets were checked by a man who claimed to be the security official. Moments later we were inside the crowded terminal building where passengers scurried everywhere. We got our bags weighed and we checked in.

Suddenly someone announced delay of three hours for our flight. It wasn’t a pleasant thing to hear. There were passengers grumbling and sleeping. The people from the air line frequently came to update the information.

After three long hours, we finally boarded the flight only to hear that our flight being delayed again by another sixty long minutes.

Having waited for almost four long and grueling hours, the plane finally took off. The Flight was scheduled to Delhi via Gauhati. It turned out to be the longest journey for me. The half cooked chicken very well did its job of upsetting my stomach.

Never the less, at around midnight our group landed in Delhi safe and sound. A man named Om Prakash was there to receive us with his toyota indica car. He drove us through the dusty roads and bustling streets of Delhi. After taking many twists and turns, we finally reached to a place where our training was scheduled to take place -The Sector 29 in Faridabad city. The signboard at the gate read “National Academy of Customs, Excise and Narcotics”. I saw few people waiting for us and when our car stopped, two young men came and helped us in unloading the bags from the car.

To my surprise and disbelief, an elderly man led two of us to a different room, some hundred meters away from our friends –The Manda kini apartments. The building looked very old in the midnight street light and there were visible signs of water leakage all around the lobby.

He gave us the key and disappeared instantly. As I opened the door, I found the room no better than the hostel where I stayed during my college days. There was a fourteen inch TV with no cable connection, empty but noisy old refrigerator, broken side table with no doors, wardrobe fitted in the wall with old news papers in it, small water boiler and a small quarter plate with few fresh banana and imported apples. Of all, the toilet appeared most pathetic. The lid of the pot was broken beyond repair, the dust on the window panes have become like a solid rock. With this brief inspection, I went to bed thinking that my rank inflation magic has served no purpose.

Soon I was awakened by my friend next door. He had all sort of ideas to protest. I soon followed his suit because we had all gone there in capacity of officials representing different departments and not as assistants and junior officers. This differentiation was too much to believe so we decided to immediately shift our belongings to other colleague’s room.

Next morning, two of us protested but it fell on the deaf ears. We were neither given new room nor being given the refund. It was Sherpa Dhaju’s delicious food in the mess that kept us going for the entire training session.

Back in the room, we made the best use of all the facilities available in our colleague’s room. We ate all the fresh fruits and biscuits in the quarter plate, emptied the tea stuffs, and used toothpaste and soaps to its exhaustion point. I realized that it was one good experience.

Every evening we went out either to shop or to dine. We sometimes got lost in the middle of seemingly law less city. I remember an incident where an auto operator mistakenly dropped us in sector 19 when we were supposed to go to sector 29.

I think this is how a normal Bhutanese official tells his overseas travel story.

Well, I will  tell my story about the knowledge I gained from the training at later stage, if I remember it rightly.

Audit found I was a travel freak.

This is my sixth year in service to King, Country and people. Till date I have worked as Customs officer in  Department of Revenue and Customs. I don't know how far it is true, but people say that officers from my head office travel the maximum for training and seminars abroad. 

For that matter, I wish I were also there in my head office too. Its my dream to travel around the world. Who wouldn't travel when you are given a hefty DSA in Dollars, with free food and accommodation! And yea... who cares about the "6 months minimum gap" rules in BCSR. They are just there like any other rules. 

Thankfully, I have availed three golden opportunities to travel abroad of which the details are given below:

1. Intellectual Property Right seminar in Japan (March 2007)........ Duration 1 Week.
2. Passenger Management Training in Malaysia (August 2009).......Duration 2 weeks
3. Computer based Training on drug Law enforcement in India (November 2010..... duration 4 days.

I remain ever grateful for my Department and my superiors for nominating my candidature. If not monetarily, it did benefit me in terms knowledge, exposure and skills. So Thank you once again

But  on 17th May 2011, someone form my head office said that there is an audit memo against my name. And interestingly I was issued a memo for breaching that very rule which many people don't give a damn. -Of course for not maintaining a minimum  6 months gap between each  ex-country travels.

The audit people found I was travel freak! They have indeed issued a memo against my name for breaching the travel rules. Memo stated that I made a trip to Bangkok, for Training on Tax Administration and Policy. But sad thing is I did not travel on that occasion. My Ministry thus asked me to submit an explanation of which I was never informed, until I went to my head office myself.

So I had to write the an explanation as under to convince them. Please read it for yourself. Oh ya! but where are the list of other travel freaks like me. I wish to share the list with public someday.

I am a beneficiary of MTCP Program 2009; Part Four

Of the 14 days program, I have spent half of it in AKMAL. There, the weather was hot and humid all the time. It often rained cat and dog. The very first sight of tropical rain frightened me because, the powerful rain not only  cut off the power supply, but also sent water gushing into our conference hall. Our classed got called off and my colleagues gathered at the lobby either for cigarettes or for  coffee. 

Suddenly, after 15 minutes of relentless rain, the serene and radiant atmosphere of Melaka returns to normal, The chirping birds returns to the rubber trees and sings again, The lush and green soccer field appears even  greener and calmer,  Ramana, the turtle and school of multi colored fish (that live in an artificial pond, next to hostel) resumes feasting on the bread (dumped in by our friends) All in all, the life in Melaka was beautiful beyond.

The memories from Melaka mall are unforgetable, because it was there I did my major shopping. I bought toys and garments for my daughters and  shoes and socks for my wife and parents. Our colleagues from  Malaysian customs, sometimes took us to a different mall and treated with traditional Malaysian tea too.

I am a beneficiary of MTCP Program 2009; Part Three

Our formal training session began on 3rd Aug. There were more than 26  participants form around the world and it was yet another proud moment for me to be representing my country. We were all asked to come in our national costume for the group photograph. I did present myself with my silk athang marthra gho.

Having done with the introductory session in the morning, we, the participants were called for the formal class, but in informal dress. An elderly man (a retired Customs official) began the lesson with his introduction. He introduced himself as Mr. Hamza. In his late 70s, he still proclaimed himself as an old man but with young and vibrant at heart. From him, I have learned a great deal of wisdom which I wish to share with my readers some other time.

That evening, we were all invited for a formal welcome dinner during which participants were briefed on the history of Malaysian culture and tradition. We were also educated more on the MTCP program, its aims and objectives.

I took a seat near my colleague from Nigeria. But we were soon joined by our colleagues form Maldives, and Mauritius. We were like back benchers. We dined voraciously and soon emptied the table. We were served our second share when some of our friends were still hesitant to start their first share. It was a real fun altogether.

From next day, we were into a serious business; -the training on traveller's management. Besides the presentations form the participants, classes were also taken by some of the most experienced and experts form the Malaysian Customs department. We were mostly trained in reading the behaviors of notorious people, nabbing smugglers, prosecuting them and finally sending them to the gallows. We were also trained to facilitate and expedite legitimate travellers with respect and diligence. In between, we were also oriented to the international terms like advance passenger information system, Kyoto convention, WCO -safe framework of standards and risk management.

These trainings went on for days and took away all our energy. Most of the participants lavishly smoked cigarettes to relax, but for non smokers (like me), an occasional sip of coffee along with  a trip to different areas in Melaka, (that are of historical significance to Malaysia) arranged by our organizer was just enough. The holy sites like Melaka; -the heritage site; and  various departmental stores were good places to be at the end of a busy day.

Most of our friends shopped garments and electronics. Some even bought diamond rings! since I had not much money for shopping, I opted to become an unofficial photographer of our group.

Here comes your  Photographer

I am a beneficiary of MTCP Program 2009; Part Two

Towards late evening on 2nd August, I boarded the Malaysian Airline Flight No ??? and began my onward journey to Malaysia. -the land of true Asia. As the flight gained height and became fully airborne, the darkness outside engulfed the airplane.

It has been a long journey in the dark. Most people preferred sleeping than  listening to flight captain and in-flight services form the flight attendants. Captain of the flight, at regular interval of time reminded all the passengers about the grim consequences of importing any illegal drugs to Malaysia; -the death sentence.

 My flight finally landed in Kaula Lampur International airport at around midnight. I met my guide, perhaps a person form the travel agent. He looked neither young nor old and spoke good English. He sounded so friendly and reminded me of my good old friends.

As we proceeded to collect out luggage, we also met a person from Mongolia who have come for the same course. She looked exactly like a Bhutanese lady and that brought me more comfort. She told me to call her Magie.

With H1N1 pandemic sweeping the region, not many people were seen in the terminal (which was otherwise designed to accommodate thousands) The ladies in the immigration counter spoke less but did their job of expediting our clearance. The customs was not in my worry list.

Suddenly, I was outside the terminal building, sweating in the heat and breeze of tropical vegetation. An old  cabbie took me in his old and noisy  cab along with Mrs. Magie from Mongolia to Melaka.  As he stopped at a nearby gas station and to refuel his gas, I could see his elderly  muslim white bear around his mouth and a beautiful taqiyah on his head. He spoke not even a word to us. He occasionally used his cell phone while driving and conversed in language, far foreign to me and Magie. I tried my best not to fall asleep but to no avail. The racing cars and motor cycles on the high way, along with the occasional screams form Magie, however kept me awake.

We reached the Customs Academy of Melaka, popularly known as AKMAL at around 2 am. Exhausted and worn out, I immediately went to my room and slept on the bed.

 I was given room No 26. It had all the facilities far far better than the ones I have seen in customs academy in Faridabad, India. The bed was comfortable and cozy. The mirror; large and clear, and LCD TV screen fitted on the wall. The bathroom appeared bit old but was clean and hygienic. The sleepers in the bathroom were worn-out but were still usable.

The surrounding was clean and calm. It had all the beauty associated with the academy. The dining was well set. The utensils bore a testimony of all the good foods it served; starting form orange juice to lemon tea, tasty fish curry to sticky rice and fresh banana to juicy melon.

The staffs of the academy were friendly and were very hospitable too. They helped me understand more on Muslim culture and tradition. They told me that drinking liquors and eating pork are considered gross. Visiting a lady's room for a man is prohibited and if found, one will be charged for a breach of sharia law. 

With all those beautiful things and beautiful  people around, I anticipated my trip to be a success, both in terms of knowledge gaining and familiarizing my self to the uniquely Malaysian society.

I am a beneficiary of MTCP Program 2009; Part One

Recipients of MTCP Scholarship, Aug, 2009

After a long gap of 17 months (after my first trip), my administration again nominated me for a trip abroad. This time, I was to travel to Malaysia in the month of August to attend a training on Passenger Management. It was funded by the Malaysian Technical Co-operation Program known more in Bhutan as MTCP. It was a 14 day program and involved participants form the developing countries world wide. It was more of  knowledge sharing among participants than a formal training.

 Since its inception in 1980s, MTCP has long a history of support to Bhutan. MTCP  supported different agencies in different fields and in different capacities. Many Bhutanese officials, both at head office and filed have immensely benefited from MTCP scholarships.

 Of all the agencies in Bhutan, Customs administration in particular has received a lion's share of support from the MTCP program. Today we have a good number of MTCP beneficiaries in Bhutanese Customs administration, spread  over 9 regional offices, actively engaged, both in revenue collection and protection of the society.  It was an honor by any means, for me  to join  my predecessors on this count.

Whatever may be the reason behind this noble initiative, (by the Malaysian Government) people in Bhutanese Customs officials have their own opinion and feedback about the program. Most of the beneficiaries widely  acknowledged and commended the initiative. The trainings it offered were all relevant, practical, rewarding and enriching. The Customs Academy in Melaka has groomed a good number of customs intellectuals and today it is being revered by most of the beneficiaries.

The training nomination, both short and long were always done at the head office then. This has invited lot of criticisms, both form within and outside. The officials in the filed  have always accused officials in the head office for not being fair and square in the nomination process. They were accused for deliberately withholding information on trainings that accorded higher daily allowances and explicitly pursued officials in the field to avail the trainings that accorded meager daily allowances.

MTCP programs were such programs, that invariably (if not always) got pushed for the field officials. And as accused, It was not because of it's relevance that it got filtered to the field level officials, but more, because of less net allowance the program accorded for the participant altogether. However the justifications from the head office always stood right and correct, because the MTCP programs were always need based and based on the practical aspects of the work. The programs were deemed more appropriate for the field officials than those in the policy makers; -the (most) officials in the head office, who are policy makers by default and (not by design).

But for me, It was a different story altogether. A thing of "daily allowance" was too little a deterrent for me in taking up the opportunity. The trip brought me a sense of excitement that was ungovernable.  I  became even more eager to find out how truly Asia, Malaysia was. (as advertised in the TV commercials) The idea of rejecting a trip to Malaysia on basis on the allowance story  sounded stupid and naive. I also thought to my self that rejecting a trip would be like rejecting a lifetime award form my administration. So I decided to accept and embrace my nomination with utmost sincere gratitude. 

I remember completing my pre-departure formalities with ease and on time.  As demanded by the organizers I  have submitted all the required information like Passport details and travel itineraries along with my lengthy essay, describing my administration, highlighting some of the -so called good practices in passenger management in my work place. I did  also submit my presentation in power point format. 

The organizers acknowledged my genuine mails instantaneously and kept silent whenever I asked something silly and nonsense. They directed me to arrange my own flight ticket for Paro-Bangkok-Paro sector and told me, that the flight ticket for Bangkok-Kaula Lampur- Bangkok would be issued by a travel agent known as Kedwang Travel Agent in Malaysia.

It was a proposition I awaited form my organizers for a long time. With this, I immediately made up my mind to capitalize on the close and symbiotic relationship my office had with the Royal Bhutan airlines;- the Drukair. It was like fairy tale and I firmly believed that the Chief Executive Officer of the airline would consent to my requisition. I wrote an application requesting his esteem office to issue me a discounted air ticket. I personally  met him and  he indicated for me to wait a while which I did for a week.  

Finally after a week, the company secretary of the Drukair called me up and said that my request has not been considered. This came as a lightning and I went numb. I couldn't believe his words and I couldn't respond to him for a while. It was agonizingly painful to know that a man who has been making and would continue to make thousands of request from me and my office, turning down my only request.  The sense of betrayal was outrageous and I started to regret beyond words, the kind of flexibility I have accorded him, both officially and personally. I felt insulted on all counts; -as a customs in-charge and as a person making request.

With my first option yielding no result, I went for my second option. I approached the accounts section of my office. To my relief and satisfaction, the accounts personal agreed to lend me the money on reimbursement basis. I bought a full fare ticket and with that I shifted my attention to other things like arranging money for my shopping and buying souvenirs for my fellow participants. I went to bank and not only emptied my saving account but also emptied my wife's saving account too. I took a months salary in advance to be on safer side too. For my fellow participants, I bought few bottles of Bhutanese whiskey and few badges of our King. 

I reached Bangkok on 1st August. I remember how I walked in the airport with an air of confidence. Unlike my first trip, I didn't need any assistance (not even from my Thai friend)  I found my way through. I spent my night at my friends residence before I finally flew to Malaysia on 2nd August.